Sardinia & Corsica ISLANDS TOUR - PICS & WRAP

I’m back home a few weeks now and finally time to write a few words about our recent Sardinia and Corsica Islands Tour.

I’ve always said that Corsica is one of my favourite places to ride a bike in the world - the mix of coastal and mountain cycling - being able to ride a 1600m high mountain pass nestled amongst pine forests in the morning then swim in the sparkling blue waters in the afternoon - for me is just perfect. Not to mention the culture - Corsican (not French!) and the contrasts of cuisine - from hearty mountain cuisines of cheeses, charcuterie and wild boar (sanglier) to the fresh seafood of the coast.

Returning to Corsica this year reminded me of all that - and I absolutely loved it. The ability to combine Corsica with its neighbouring Italian island was perfect - and I found a renewed appreciation for northern Sardinia as we stayed at some new locations and discovered new highlights - both on and off the bike.

The group met in Barcelona - this city of art, architecture, culture, history and cuisine is incredible. There’s so much to see and do you could easily spend a week - and many of the group had arrived early to explore the sights (Sagrada Familia and Gaudi’s other architectural delights, tapas eating, Paella workshop, Picasso museum, a gravel ride to name a few) … and warm up the legs with some riding.

Welcome drinks and Happy Birthday Boyd took place in the palatial lounge of our hotel - which felt more like Versailles than Barcelona, but with a “Free” 24 hour Buffet with Estrella Damm on tap…. it was a sure way to make a group of cyclists feel happy and welcome!

Our “Prologue” was a perfect 48km/1000m loop around the hills of Barcelona - with a steep pinch to the spectacular Tibidabo lookout testing the legs, lungs (and Mal’s tyres). So quickly feeling like we’d left the city as the roads were quiet and surrounded by forests - with views back to the Barcelona skyline. While it was a social-pace ride - some were keen to show off their climbing prowess on the first climb and I don’t think I ever saw Sandra or Boyd on the bike again this Tour ;-)

Overnight was a special and unique experience sailing away from Barcelona on our overnight ferry “Grimaldi Lines”. Despite an approaching electrical storm, nervous discussions of motion sickness (Jo!) and comparisons with the Spirit of Tasmania - the Med proved to be calm - only a very gentle rocking sending us to sleep in our little cabins.

Gallura coastline

Ciao Italia!! We woke to relatively mild conditions and the northern Sardinian coastline. While breakfast on the ferry was… not exactly a highlight - many on the group made a fast getaway off the ferry along the coastal road to find a suitable restaurant - some returning to a WOR favourite … “The best seafood pasta of my entire life” - is what I wrote on Instagram that day. The lunch had all the elements of perfection - location, sea view, service and incredible food - not fussy, just fresh, well done and regional. All washed down with a glass of local Vermentino di Gallura - the best vermentino in the world! Now.. was it a glass of wine… or 600ml……..??

Post lunch we had our first climb on the island - remote riding through vineyards, sheep and famland - to arrive in picturesque Castelsardo - the castle and houses of the old town perched on a hill, almost tumbling in to the sea, with a little swimming beach opposite our hotel (where Cathy and Sandra discovered cheeky mini bottles of Campari soda- where one is never enough!). Dinner was in a spectacular location and a feast of seafood we could barely finish. We watched the sun set on the mediterranean with the pink and yellow hued village glowing - while maybe 500 photos were taken by our group alone - apparently it had nothing on Darwin sunsets, hey Fran and Craig…!?

Khanh at Elephant rock… just in case you couldn’t pick the Elephant.

The rolling riding on Sardinia continued - Elephant rock and the rocky landscape of the Valle de la Luna and historic Tempio Paussania (given the heat Sardinia and much of Europe is sadly suffering now, it’s hard to believe in early July that I was actually COLD at lunch - putting on my jacket as I sat in the pedestrianised streets to enjoy yet another bowl of delicious pasta). We rode through extensive cork forests… (apparently Sardinia produces 90% of Italy’s cork). Now, does everyone know what a cork tree looks like…?

Tempio

This is a cork tree

Our overnight hotel, tucked in the mountains of the Gallura by a Lago di Liscia, was an absolute hidden gem - suave Salvatore charmed us and his childhood friend Renato from Jankara wines was full of knowledge and pride as he took us through a passionate wine tasting and story of his vineyard. We enjoyed traditional suckling pig and sebedas for dinner - Galluran cooking at its finest. I think everyone wanted to stay 2 nights…

Another steep pinch at the start of Day 3 (Dave did a few laps to warm up) and after some of us got some tourist points visiting the Nuraghe, we arrived at the Costa Smeralda - the jewell of Sardinia’s coastline. Emerald hued waters and rolling granite rocks - unfortunately no time for swimming as we had a fierce headwind (and crosswind) and 3:30pm ferry to catch! However many of us did find time for a swim at Santa Teresa di Gallura (especially those that took a shortcut - thanks for the tow Russel and Dave!) - the water so blue, well deserved gelati and the best pizza ever (is that right, Jo?) after an unexpectedly tough ride.

Ciao Italia, Bonjour Corsica!!! Or in Corsican “Bonghjornu”. Arriving in Bonifacio by boat is incredible - the citadel perched high on limestone cliffs and the harbour well protected by fortifications. The sea floor apparently dotted with pirate ships and ancient vessels. From the glitz and glam of the Port to the winding streets of the Citadel - Bonfiacio was a perfect spot for 2 nights. The group enjoyed the hotel perched above the Med (the couples got the ‘honeymoon’ suites with big balconies) short rides, swims (Fran and Craig found the best beach apparently), descending the Escalier de Roy d’Aragon and we kitted up in our all-white linen (10/10 for Ash) for a group meal, we got our first taste of Aubergine a la Bonifacienne (eggplant stuffed with meat, herbs and cheese and baked) - our first of many….

Our first moving day on Corsica challenged us - the heat and exposed climb to l’Ospedale was tough - the local spring with natural mineral water touted as having “healing properties” by many - as we tipped water over our heads before tucking in to a delicious lunch at another favourite restaurant - and another serve of eggplant for me! After lunch the riding is superb - mostly flat riding through sheltered pine forest surrounded by mountains and lakes through to Zonza. Our hotel pool and 10/10 afternoon tea (thanks Noel) a highlight! I could easily spend a few days there. And the Pietra (Corsican chestnut beer) was pretty good too!

Roofi… on the tough climb to l’Ospedale

The Col de Bavella the next morning was absolutely stunning - cool climbing for around 9km to the Col, with rugged mountain views. Always one of my favourite rides (and one crew member Liz decided to do multiple ascent “efforts” on the climb! Go Liz!). Col sign photos at the top.

We descended through pretty ochre coloured mountain villages, lunch with another gorgeous view and on to Porto Pollo on the coast. We swam (thanks to Dave for entertaining Max - I think I owe you a spritz?), relaxed and ate seafood at a beautifully set table for our group meal with an indulgent tiramisu for dessert (who could eat it all..?!). I think it was Fran who said she never considered anywhere but Australia as worthy of a beach holiday - but Corsica had changed her mind!

More stunning rolling coastal riding took us to Appietto Plage (for more swims, spritz and pietra) and we skirted Ajaccio (don’t forget Afa…!). A decadent lunch at one of Corsica’s top restaurants was enjoyed by some (Roofi, Dick, Mal…).

After a tough climb to Piana (a few in the support car avoiding the climb and the heat…. for me big thanks to the Fromagerie half way up for the cold drinks…. and the goats cheese), we cycled one of Corsica’s most famous and spectacular roads: the Calanches de Piana - red rocks tumbling to the sea. The best way to appreciate it is by bike or by foot - and with Corsican tourist numbers down this year, it felt like we had the road to ourselves.

We enjoyed 2 nights in Porto (boat trips to the incredible UNESCO Scandola nature reserve, lunches, swims, a run for Roofi, snorkeling, more washing, shopping and relaxing… oh or riding 3000m altitude for Alfie..!). Our group dinner venue in Porto was so beautiful it looked like it’d just come off the front cover of a magazine and certainly gained me a few Instagram “loves”. Gazpacho and fresh grilled fish were perfect, washed down with local rosé.

The Col du Vergio is another classic Corsican climb. 32kms from the mediteranean to 1477m of altitude. An absolute epic - incredible gorges, goats, pigs and sheep…. making way to pine forest and opening up to mountains. Snow tips in the distance. An all time favourite ride for me and I believe also a favourite for Chantelle (she didn’t leave anything behind ..!). We stayed in historic Corte (with a memorable afternoon tea…) - raising a beer to Corsican hero Pascal Paoli - and escaping as quickly as we could from our hotel the next morning (I kept expecting Basil Fawlty to appear)…

Our final day on Corsica involved remote, wild and beautiful riding on tiny, precarious roads (no problems driving for Roofi… I don’t know what Pepe was talking about …?!) - the European heatwave definitely warming up. Luckily there were water fountains dotted along the way. I even bumped in to a modern day Fausto Coppi - puffing on a cigarette resplendent in lycra. I also enjoyed a romantic lunch with John at a table for 2 with some impeccable food. Khanh taking out the tourist points again for exploring the villages along the way.

Our crew Roofi and Alfie (with Chris helping out on debut as crew for the day!) did a great job keeping us watered and cheering us over our the final climb to the Col de Teghime - before a sweeping descent to Bastia and our final night on Corsica.

While we farewelled La Corse “l’Ille de Beauté” - the beautiful island, as the French call it, our riding was not finished! We conquered Nice’s famous Col d’Eze with views back to the Med and came together in the evening for a final group meal, speeches and beers at Cafe du Cycliste in Nice’s old town.

Well done to all the cyclists - it was really special to share this ride and experience with you! Also - it was wonderful for me personally to run a tour with 9 out of a total of 21 (including Crew) women - and overall a real mix of people from different countries (Australia, Canada and NZ), backgrounds, ages and genders. - and I hope I’m still able to ride my bike in special locations when I’m 73 (the age of one incredible woman on this tour…. Georgie! x ).

Thanks to our crew - Alfie, Noel, Roofi and Liz - for keeping us rolling. Thanks to Pepe and my two boys Max and Leo - who enjoyed the beaches, pizzas and gelatis along the way. If you are keen to ride Europe with us in 2024 - register your EOI here and let us know what tour interests you!

Here’s some more pics, and of course there’s many more on our Instagram and Facebook pages.