GIRONA to the TOURMALET TOUR WRAP
It’s been a couple of weeks since we cycled the epic Col du Tourmalet - the final day of riding on this inaugural Girona to the Col du Tourmalet tour. “10/10” “The Making of a WOR Classic”…. I think we really perfected cycle touring in Europe with this one… The 13 night Tour offered a huge contrast of landscapes, cultures, gastronomy and cycling routes. From the picturesque beaches of the Costa Brava, the medieval villages of the Emporda, the quiet rural Spanish Pyrenees and the famous French Pyrenean climbs of the Tour de France.
We began in Girona - a cyclist’s paradise and home to many Pros, which was an ideal start location. Easily accessible from Australia and a perfect place for people to arrive early and warm up the legs on many of the local routes around town and enjoy the history, food atmosphere (and Melbourne quality coffee..!) of Girona’s Barri Gotic.
After spectacular Welcome Drinks on our hotel rooftop bar (we got the “good” section of the rooftop terrace - not that other tour group ;-) and a good nights sleep - we set off on Day 1 to climb Els Angels - a favourite with the locals that commences almost immediately out of Girona. A relatively gentle forrested climb to the lookout at the top - views to the Pyrenees and Costa Brava - our cycling playground for the next couple of weeks! Craig was keen to show off his Darwin “climbing legs” - while Sandra quietly chased his tail…
We visited the medieval villages of the Baix Emporda - photogenic Peratallada and Pals (shoe shopping anyone..?) before the rolling coastal road to picturesque Tamariu - an outstanding hotel and gorgeous emerald blue waters for swimming in the evening. The quality of coastline and beaches took many by surprise and afternoon (and for some… early-morning) swims were a highlight.
After a little bit of a “steep pinch” (!!!) to get out of Tamariu, we cycled the Alt Emporda wine region - vineyards and farmland dotted with medieval villages. Montgri was always a feature on the horizon… (if you know what it looks like, you know!). A final climb from Roses to arrive in the traditional whitewashed fishing village of Cadaques, where we spent 2 nights - more swimming, visiting the Casa Musee Salvador Dali and a ride through wild rocky landscape to Cap de Creus. A highlight dinner of Paella in a historic and mysterious restaurant tucked away in the alleyways. The anchoas (anchovies) of nearby l’Escala a foodie highlight of the region.
As we tracked inland the riding became more mountainous. Some conquered the tough Mar del deu del Mont climb (well done Sam, Mitch, Sandra and Pete… ?anyone else I hope I haven’t forgotten) en route to historic Besalu, the setting of a beautiful group meal beside the imposing Pont Fortificat (fortified bridge) - the food as lovely as the setting and we enjoyed delicious Emporda wines of the region we’d cycled.
A short / long option day gave riders a chance to choose between the challenging climb to Rocacorba or a shorter scenic route to visit Castellfollit de la Roca’s “Sausage Museum” - tough decision…!!!! Well done to those that conquered the Rocacorba and over 2000m vert. for the day. I must admit that personally I enjoyed the shorter route to the striking village of Castelfollit - unfortunately the museum was closed - but the chocolate milk “Cacaolat” was a revelation.
After an unexpectedly challenging (hot) climb to the Col de Santigosa, we descended to St Joan de les Abadesses and a beautifully renovated casa rural with another intimate dinner and gorgeous pool (no bombs!!! ). We visited a 1000 year old market in Ripoll (where Steve took the challenge of afternoon tea shopping in his stride!) and climbed to nearly 2000m over the remote Col de la Creueta - a new climb for me and one that was up there in terms of varied riding, views and challenge - a real highlight for me. Sandra politely cycled with me most of the way - but with a few kms to go she shot off in to the distance like a rocket.
We had another rest/loop day in Seu d’Urgell and enjoyed a creative tapas meal under the porticos - with a birthday celebration - Happy Birthday Mitch!!! (and I believe a few too many G&Ts for some later in the evening…!). This meant that the rest/loop day involved a little more ‘resting’ than riding…
We cycled the Col del Canto and upstream beside the Noguera Pallaresa river - most enjoying the “wellness” zone at the hotel - remember to watch out for the bucket!
The grand climb to the Port de la Bonaigua took us to over 2000m - snowcapped peaks and sweeping hairpins and incredible views once again for our final day in Spain. I rewarded myself with pintxos and cava in Vielha to say Adieu.
It was a humid and sweaty climb to the Col du Portillon - where we put one foot in France, one in Spain -a fast steep descent - it always surprises me how quickly the culture changes. It couldn’t be more French than the Belle Epoque town of Bagneres de Luchon - a beautiful tree lined avenue of cafes and restaurants. Sadly the thermal baths were closed for renovations but there was plenty to do - surrounded by Pyreneean peaks and iconic climbs - some climbed Superbagneres, others shopped at the weekly produce market and enjoyed a picnic (fresh cheeses, meats… radishes and lots of wine, I believe!) - and as usual on loop/rest day - washing was done..! We celebrated the “Fete de la Musique” in the evening - to celebrate 21 June and the longest day of the year.
The big double-Col day of the Peyresourde Aspin arrived - and we woke to rain, thunder and lighting!!! As we sheltered in the hotel foyer the power went out - perhaps not a good omen for our day ahead. Luckily the storms and rain eased and we enjoyed a cool moody climb of the spectacular Peyresourde, wrapped in clouds!! Crepes on the Col - possibly the best crepes ever? Certainly seems it after a tough climb! The weather improved as the day went on and by the time we reached the Col d’Aspin the sun was shining. I tapped it out with Tim and enjoyed the switchbacks/hairpins and views. It was an epic day of spectacular mountain riding that we won’t forget!!!
The final day, the final challenge, the final climb - the famous Col du Tourmalet!!! 17.1 kms from Campan and an average of 7.5% - with some super steep sections of 9-10% and lots of 8% - a tough climb indeed and rightfully earning its place as one of the truly tough climbs of the Pyrenees. Some stopped in La Mongie for a quick drink 2/3 of the way up and others pushed on the the top (others took a luxurious couple of hours stop to take the cable car to Pic du Midi - with incredible views across the mountains). A tough yet stunning final 4.5kms - the statue of Octave Lapize marking the Col ! Emotions were high (fatigue levels too!!) - the end of a wonderful climb and top class Tour! We descended and rolled along the beautiful voie verte (Cycle path) to Lourdes (someone jumped in the icy cold river) - for speeches and a final dinner before farewells the next morning.
Thanks to our Crew - Liz, Alfie and Steve - for keeping us rolling, watered and fed! Thanks to Pepe for looking after the boys. And thanks to everyone who joined us on this inaugural Tour.
Girona to the Tourmalet - what a journey - we will be back for this one… certainly a WOR classic and I hope this one will become a favourite ride for many.
And a few more pics…
Also, see our Instagram account for many more!!!