Bordeaux to alpe d’huez - a french fairytale
Congratulations to our group of riders who cycled across France from Bordeaux to Alpe d’Huez!! It was a fairytale ride - a magical journey through some of France’s most varied, enchanting, historical and beautiful regions with the added bonus of ticking off two of the most famous cycling climbs in the world - Mt Ventoux and Alpe d’Huez!
The tour began with evening apero in one of Bordeaux’s most well reputed wine bars - Lillet tonic and of course some delicious nibbles washed down with Bordeaux wine - bien sur! After a group photo the following morning at the Miroir d’eau in central Bordeaux, we rolled out along the cycle path beside the Garonne for our longest ride of the Tour - close to 120kms. We joined the lovely Roger Laperbie piste cyclable, rolling through forest and vines to Creon for our first of many morning patisserie and coffee stops. Largely flat riding (sshhh don’t mention the Route Barré) with our first “steep pinch” to Monbazillac chateau. Our overnight in Issigeac was voted “best accommodation” of the Tour - our gracious hosts preparing an incredible home made afternoon tea beside the pool - the cold zucchini soup my favourite on a summer’s afternoon. The dinner at a Michelin restaurant absolutely incredible - where we had our first taste of foie gras, duck and Amy and Emma somehow had room to indulge in the "chariot des fromages”, - a choice of over 30 cheeses, all washed down with Bergerac AOC.
Monpazier
First day done!
View from Castelnaud
Roofi’s new sunglasses
The Dordogne
Issigeac - end of Day 1
The following days cycling took us to the river Dordogne and all the touristic delights on offer of the Perigord Noir region - castles, caves, duck and goose! The incredible Bastide of Monpazier a stunning stop (some enjoyed the coffee, others enjoyed the cars!) with rolling riding to take us to the Dordogne and the imposing chateaux of Beynac and Castelnaud to explore in the afternoon - one French and one English - facing each other over the river, key defences in the 100 Years War. A hot day, a few shortcuts, a river swim (Russel and Ned) and we arrived in beautiful Sarlat - the historic central town a fairytale of medieval buildings, alleyways and squares - a perfect stop for 2 nights.
Liz arriving in Monpazier
Cycle path out of Sarlat
Descent time, Day 2
We visited many of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
Post dinner beers with the Crew
Rest/Loop day was a day of choices - Amy, Nick, Liz and Sandra cycled, many shopped at the Sarlat Market (perhaps one of the most famous and beautiful in all of France), and the other Crew spent the day sorting out the van’s flat tyre… (#crewlife). It was double-duck for group-dinner, only fitting in the home of le canard. And who knows what the big black door is for? Some of the group contemplated it over a post-dinner drink in the square.
Foie Gras…
Incredible desert on night 1
Rocamadour - a UNESCO World Heritage site was a highlight the following day - on the Way of Saint James - the medieval village, sanctuary and castle built in to the cliffs overlooking the valley. Some were smart enough to take the elevator to visit the village however Russel and Ned decided to strengthen their quads for Alpe d’Huez by carrying their bikes up the 216 steps to the Sanctuary. I hope it paid off later as we hit the Alps.
Loubressac
Rocamadour
Loubressac
We cycled through rolling farmland past fields of Rocamadour goats to our boutique hotel in Loubressac - another highlight for me - perched overlooking the valley below the afternoon tea setting was beautiful and Christoph’s hospitality cheeky and charming, the local goats cheese delicious. Vivienne and I enjoyed a local concert with the locals amongst the medieval buildings before a group meal with the sun setting over the valley.
Amy climbing
Don’t miss the left turn to Bagnac!
We continued east, along the River Lot following the Route de Saint Jacques pilgrim trail to Conques - enchanting Hansel and Gretel style houses tucked in to the valley with an imposing cathedral, the evening light show on the Tympanum mesmerising… who stayed up?
Clare arriving in Conques
Mal… I’m not sure where
The river Lot
Conques
Sandra in Entraygues
From the river Lot we crossed the Col de Lagarde (unseasonably freezing cold!) to the Gorge du Tarn - the hair-pin descent just incredible and I heard many of the group claim the ride to be “my most spectacular day on a bike” - the sun coming out and lighting up the blues, greens and rocky hues just in time - after a chilly morning we were eating ice cream in the sun surrounded by the spectacular cliffs and cycling through rock tunnels as we made our way along the gorge. Well done to Nick who ticked off another climb (as he often did, sometimes searching for little known Strava segments to claim KOM!).
Pic of the Day - the Gorge du Tarn
Tarn
The stunning Gorge du Tarn & stunning Sandra!
We followed in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey and crossed the beautifully remote and sauvage Cevennes mountains (after a fairly steep climb to the Col de Faisses) to descend an incredible sweeping road (mind the roadworks) to the Gard river valley. Suddenly the temperature went up 5deg and we were surrounded by the sounds of cicadas, colours and smells of Provence - cycling through sunflowers, grapes and lavender (with a broken spoke for Owen… ?too much power..) to arrive in gorgeous Uzes for 2 nights. Spritz’s in the Place aux Herbes a fitting end to a big ride.
Cevennes
Alfie and Roofi in Loubressac having zoomed through to make the most of the view
Descending the Cevennes
The Pont du Gard aqueduct on a beautiful early July day - the river perfect for swimming
Another rest day and more choices. The Pont du Gard aqueduct, dating to the 1st century AD an absolute highlight (and yes Liz, it’s the same one that’s in Zwift…!). Some cycled there, others took a lift in the support vehicle. Swimming in the river below the aqueduct something I’d always wanted to do - the sun shone and I was lucky enough to enjoy the moment and swimming with my family (Pepe, Lucy, Max and Leo) who had been travelling alongside the Tour crossing paths with us from time to time. There was also a bit of shopping in Uzes’ upmarket boutiques and many of the ladies turned up for group dinner in new “Euro” style outfits. For me this group dinner was a highlight - the fresh bright flavours and colours of Provence - fish, olives, gazpacho, fresh summer vegetables washed down with a delicious local viognier - perhaps I had finally eaten enough duck and cheese!?
Sandra.. with my Spritz!! (She doesn’t drink!)
Mal and Viv enjoying ‘mushroom’ shots
Beautiful fish for our group meal in Uzes
Alfie… off like a rocket despite a month off the bike
Uzes Place aux herbes
Uzes market - vibrant colours
Emma’s “Louis Vitton”
We crossed the mighty river Rhone and cycled through some of the most famous wine regions and villages in France - the Cotes du Rhone, Chateauneuf du Pap, Vacqueras, Beaumes de Venise and Gigondas - however with a big ride coming up the next day, there weren’t too many members of the group partaking in much vin… the shorter day and relatively flat ride a perfect warm up for…
Sandra looking out over the Dentelles - Mont Ventoux summit just covered by clouds
Emma and Owen enjoying lunch in Chateauneuf du Pap
“The Giant of Provence”, Mont Ventoux - one of the most exciting days of the Tour! Always a little daunting but we woke to mostly clear skies and no mistral blowing - mid 20 deg C in the valley and little wind - near perfect conditions to tackle this incredibly famous mountain a feature of the Tour de France. Half the group tacked the Malaucene side and half the traditional Bedoin route - largely all arriving at the 1909m summit together - chapeau to all the riders for conquering this incredible mountain - one that stands tall above the Rhone valley below and no matter how fit you may be, it’s always a challenge! (Who would even conisder running it..???) OR cycling it 3 times in one day - Nick you really do deserve your admission to the Club des cinglés du Mont Ventoux ! Crazy! Chapeau. An enjoyable evening meal at our hotel in Vaison la Romaine - sunset and drinks overlooking the surrounding countryside and a sense of achievement amongst us all.
The view from Ventoux summit
Sandra making it look easy!
Allez Roofi!
Post Ventoux vibes
The riding more mountainous as we made our way in to the Alps, ticking off some of the less famous climbs of the region - the remoteness of the department Drôme just beautiful cycling - more riders than cars and superb scenery. A lovely young local man quoted a poet - “In the shadow of the Alps and kissed by the sun of Provence” - perfect cycling in my mind. We ate apricots on the “Apricot Col” and crawled up the Col du Premol to arrive in Chatillon en Diois - a fairly ‘quaint’ hotel in the heart of the Drôme. I don’t think the typical French petit dejeuner of tartine, croissant, beurre et confiture quite what the group were hoping for with the climbing ahead (don’t worry, we’ll get some eggs next time!).
Mal climbing the Col d’Accarias surrounded by snowcapped peaks
A beautiful morning ride up the Col du Menée was superb as was the ride crossing the Col Accarias between Mens and La Mure - rolling fields surrounded by snowcapped peaks of the high Alps in the distance. Magic. We knew what was coming…. and I even spotted Alpe d’Huez in the distance.
Descending the Apricot Col
One of my favourite lunches - just outside Nyons (famous for Olives) - Burrato and tomato salad with Nyons olives, olive tapenade and olive oil. Superbly fresh
Vaison la Romaine
Post Ventoux protein
Liz on the “Apricot Col”
The final day we cycled two big-name Cols of the Tour de France - the beautiful Col d’Ornon - with a sweeping descent (Amy was this one the best of the trip…??) taking us to Bourg d’Oisans, a cycling mecca full of bike shops and cafes. We fuelled up and then tackled les 21 virages (the 21 hairpin bends) of l’Alpe d’Huez - perhaps the most famous cycling mountain in the world always drawing a party-like crowd when it features in the Tour de France. It’s a challenge, 13km at near 8% gradient with little relief except for the slightly flatter hairpins themselves. Tactics to ride it… take it easy for the first 3 ramps (over 10%)… well I think we all felt our weary legs after 2 weeks cycling - but we all made it - cheering each other in to arrive at the bar at the top. A favourite moment for me was when Ned cycled back down to support his Dad to finish off the final few hairpins - all class Ned, although I think your old man is now trying to work out how to hold you back!! It’s a tough climb but I can assure you that the pression at the top is the best tasting beer in the world!
Col d’Ornon
Bourg d’Oisans
Beautiful flowers on the Ornon
Amy and Nick on the Ornon
We celebrated with not only beer but a delicious meal of true mountain food - fondue and raclette (yes I was ready for cheese again!) and a speech night and slide show back at our wonderful family-run chalet style hotel. Sad farewells the following morning and huge congratulations to the group - 1150km and over 15,000m of vertical ascent in 15 days, and I can’t remember how many of the officially rated plus beaux villages de France we passed through - it was much more than a ride - it was an incredible journey across France that we won’t forget.
Make sure you check out more of our photos on Instagram, Facebook and our Bordeaux - Alps Instagram Story.
Keen to join us on this ride - send us an email to get on the EOI list for 2025. Bookings opening in August.
Alpe d’Huez - made it!
A huge thanks to our amazing support Crew - Alfie for keeping our bikes rolling (so good to have you back on the bike!), Liz for ongoing support and ride leading particularly helping riders out on long tough days and Mal for being solid as a rock. The crew do so much - driving, supporting but also behind the scenes to keep things moving. And thanks as always to Pepe for looking after our 2 little boys Max and Leo and Lucy for making her debut in Europe with a few cameos at group meals !
Well done Sandra
more photos…
Father and son - kudos!
